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My Mexican-ness is very abstract title,” said Rick Owens shortly before presenting this show. Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name Owens’s mother hails from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage this collection was the besides I will buy this first time he has used his work as a lens through which to explore his south-of-the-border roots. As he said at the top, however, Owens’s relationship with those roots is abstract and that abstraction was reflected in the collection.

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.Zippered jumpsuits title_link, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in clothing created by Owens. Purple Label is Ralph Lauren’s jewel in the crown, a cultivated exercise in fine tailoring, where a quintessential sense of ease is infused with sophisticated polish. A palette of soft tonal colors, a slightly vintage insouciance, a fluidity of fit and balance of proportions come to mind when thinking of Purple Label’s signature aesthetic. Yet at today’s presentation at the label’s sumptuous Milanese headquarters, what stood out was a gorgeous, visually compelling lineup of brightly colored evening suits in shades of saturated yellow, fuchsia, and orange.

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